September 29, 2013

Best Traditional Towns in Japan - Kansai (Tatsuno, Tanba-Sasayama & Yuasa)

The Kansai area boasts many interesting old towns for those fond of strolling through history. Here is a first selection of three, lesser-known places: Tatsuno, Tanba-Sasayama (both in Hyogo Prefecture) and Yuasa (Wakayama Prefecture).

[Tatsuno - Castle]

1. Tatsuno
Tatsuno is a small former castle town in south-western Hyogo Prefecture, at just 15 kilometers distance from Himeji in the Harima region. Located on the Ibo River, Tatsuno thrived as a center of industry and transport. It is famous for three things: it was (and is) the center for the production of soy sauce in the Kansai (together with Shodoshima and - to a lesser degree - Yuasa below); it was (and is) also the center for the production of somen noodles in Western Japan (another center is Sakurai in Nara Pref.); and it was the birthplace of the poet Miki Rofu who wrote the children's song "Akatombo" ("Red Dragonfly"), which every Japanese knows. The old part of the small town, across the river, still exudes a nice historic atmosphere. You will be pleasantly surprised by the lack of tourists.

[Tatsuno - Soy Sauce Museum]

Places to visit:
  • Tatsuno "Usukuchi" Soy Sauce Museum
    Soy sauce developed from miso (it was initially a by-product of miso manufacture) in the 16th century, initially in Yuasa (see below). As a heavy press is necessary for making soy sauce, a real industry developed in contrast to the production of miso which often took place in small shops. Edo-period production centers for soy sauce were Noda, Choshi (both in Chiba Prefecture), Shodoshima and Tatsuno. Soy production in Tatsuno was started in the period 1587-1590 by Maruoya Magozaemon; in 1666 Maruoya Magouemon developed light colored shoyu ("usukuchi shoyu"), which became very popular in the Kansai region, as it adds flavor without coloring the ingredients, something which fits the delicate cuisine of Kyoto. This soy sauce became possible thanks to the water of the Ibo River which is soft, with minimal iron content (the higher the iron content, the darker the sauce sauce; and hard water is less suitable to extract subtle flavors than soft water). Other ingredients are also local, such as the salt from Ako. Tatsuno producers also make use of amazake (a sweet rice drink) to enhance the flavor, aroma and color of their soy sauce. Note, by the way, that despite the lighter color, Usukuchi Shoyu is somewhat saltier than the darker type. Tatsuno soy sauce has flourished through the ages and is still being produced by Higashimaru and others. The museum has been established in a retro building that used to be the office of the Higashimaru soy sauce company and displays soy sauce making tools that were used until the early Showa period. 
  • Site of Tatsuno Castle. The present castle with its white walls and turrets is a reconstruction. The original dates back to 1499 and sat on the top of the mountain; after that, a new castle was built in the present location at the foot of the same mountain in 1672. The castle grounds are a good sakura blossom spot. There is also a reconstruction of the Honmaru palace.
  • In Tatsuno Park stands a monument to the famous children's song "Akatombo (Red Dragonfly)" - it will even play the song for those who have forgotten the melody. 
  • In the small Tatsuno Municipal Museum of the History and Culture (near the castle) you can learn more about this interesting town.
  • Visit the "Somen no Sato" Museum of the Ibonoito company, a 15 min walk from the next JR station, Higashi-Hashisaki, to learn more about tenobe (hand-stretched) somen noodles. These fine wheat noodles have been produced in the area since 1418. The facility features a demonstration and sampling corner, a production site, shops, a diorama of somen making, etc. 
How to get there: The historical area in Tatsuno is a 20-minute walk from JR Hon-Tatsuno Station (across the river); Hon-Tatsuno is 20 minutes by local train on the JR Kishin line from Himeji. 

[Tanba-Sasayama - Tanba Pottery Museum]

2. Tanba-Sasayama
Sasayama in the Tanba area of Hyogo is a small castle town, located on a bucolic plain, that preserves many old buildings around the castle and in its old merchant's quarter. The tourist center of the town is housed in a retro building dating to 1924, called Taisho Romankan; there are also a restaurant inside, and a shop selling local produce, such as kuromame (black soy beans). Despite the long list of museums below, the greatest pleasure of Sasayama is just to stroll through the old town and make your own discoveries. As museums go, the three at the top of the below list are the best.

Places to visit:
  • Tanba Kotokan (Old Tanba Pottery Museum). Museum dedicated to traditional Tanba pottery, housed in a wonderful group of old rice storehouses. Beautiful old pots (ranging from the Kamakura-period to the Edo-period) in a wonderful environment. Tanba-yaki is not made in Tanba-Sasayama, but in the village of Tachikui, where you will find the kilns, and which also is home to the The Museum of Ceramic Art, Hyogo
  • Nohgaku Shiryokan (Noh Museum). Museum dedicated to the Noh Theater, displaying masks, robes, and instruments. A model of a Noh stage shows the large pots (of course, made from Tanba-yaki) placed beneath the wooden floor for acoustical effect. The connection of Tanba-Sasayama with Noh is via the Aoyama castle lords who in 1858 built a Noh stage at the local Kasuga Shrine.
  • Sasayama Rekishi Bijutsukan (Sasayama Historical Art Museum). The museum is housed in Japan's oldest district court building, which was in use from 1890 to 1981. On display are both artworks (often originally belonging to the Aoyama castle lords) and historical objects: screens, maps, the local pottery called Ohjiyama-yaki, lacquerware, porcelain, old armor, etc. 
  • Castle Ruin and Oshoin. Sasayama castle was built in 1609 at the order of Tokugawa Ieyasu. The Oshoin palace building was destroyed by fire in 1944. It has now been reconstructed, using ancient building techniques, and with much attention to detail. 
  • Aoyama History MuseumThe entrance gate is a Nagaya gate from the Edo-period. Exhibits include printing blocks and other artifacts from the Edo-period. 
  • Anma's Historical Museum (Buke-yashiki Samurai House). Anma was a vassal of Aoyama, the feudal lord of Sasayama. In this traditional samurai house some furniture and cooking vessels are on display. 
  • Tamba Toji Sake Brewery Museum. The Tamba Toji Sake Brewery Museum explains the origin of the important Tamba Toji master brewers as well as the sake brewing process with displays of old-fashioned tools. There is also a sake brewery in town, the Homei Brewery, which is housed in a nice old building.
How to get there: Take the JR Takarazuka Line rapid service from Amagasaki to Sasayamaguchi, then 15 min bus to the center of the old town. Sasayama Tourism page. 
[Yuasa - the old town]

3. Yuasa
Yuasa, located about half an hour by train south of Wakayama City, is like Tatsuno another old soy town. In fact, it is the oldest soy town in Japan for it was here that soy sauce was discovered as a by-product from the manufacture of miso paste. That miso was called Kinzanji miso and it was made in Kokokuji Temple in nearby Yura. It is still being produced in Yuasa and served in its restaurants - as a pickled side dish, containing small bits of vegetables. Miso was not only used for soups, but was perhaps first and for all a pickling agent. The liquid that dripped out of the miso as it matures is technically known as miso-damari, and is a very thick sort of soy sauce. Yuasa flourished from the 17th to 19th centuries thanks to the production of both soy sauce and Kinzanji miso. In its heyday, there were 92 soy sauce factories, of which now four remain.

Places to visit:
  • The old quarter with historical homes is a 10 min walk from Yuasa station. There are no big destinations here, but Yuasa is just fun to walk around in. You will find a small (free) soy museum where old tools for making soy sauce are on display. In the same street are two old shops, Kadocho making and selling premium soy sauce (since 1841), and Ohta Hisasuke Ginsei making and selling miso. There is also a small (free) historical museum called Jinburo. Among the several temples in town, Jinsenji is probably the most interesting: it has a small dry garden in front of the main hall (dating from 1663) and outside, next to the gate, stands a monument dedicated to the great earthquake and tsunami of 1854. The townscape here has been designated as a special preservation district.
  • Yuasa Soy Sauce. Marushin Honke had retreated from soy sauce manufacturing in 1965, and concentrated on the more profitable Kinzanji Miso. However, in recent years under the name Yuasa Soy Sauce a separate soy sauce company was again set up. Traditional soy making takes place here and the factory is always open to visitors - with large parking lots for tour buses it is a bit commercialised, but the friendly staff gives detailed explanations, making a visit certainly worthwhile. They make various premium kinds of soy sauce - for example with black beans from Tanba - and are active in export. The factory and shop stand along Route 42, on the opposite side from the old town when coming from Yuasa Station. From the station, turn right and follow the road until you reach the large grounds of a school. Here turn right again, and keep going straight on, crossing the railroad, until you reach a busy road (Route 42). Here turn left and you will soon see the signboards of Yuasa Soy Sauce. 
  • Yuasa is part of the municipality of Arida, which thanks to the warm climate is one of the most famous mikan producing areas in Japan. In the season, you will see the mikan-tress on the hillsides when your train approaches Yuasa, and you can buy the fruit everywhere in town.
  • Another local delicacy is shirasu-don, whitebait over rice. You can taste it (together with Kinzanji miso) in Kadoya, a restaurant standing to the left on the opposite side of the street from the station.
How to get there: Yuasa is just over 40 min. from Wakayama City by JR Kinokuni line.  

September 13, 2013

The Birth of Venus by Botticelli (Stories behind paintings)

The Birth of Venus (Nascita di Venere) is a large-sized painting by Sandro Botticelli (1444-1510), made between 1482-1485, and kept in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence (one of the oldest museums in the world).

[Sandro Botticelli - The Birth of Venus (c. 1485) - Wikipedia - Public Domain]

This painting not only celebrates the birth of Venus, but also that of the modern Western world which arose from the rediscovery of the ancient cultures of Greece and Rome: most women painted in the Middle Ages had been motherly Madonnas with fat babies, here we have a pagan goddess, the goddess of love - and she stands stark naked before us.

What do we see? 

Venus comes ashore, standing on the shell of the king scallop which would centuries later become the mark of a famous oil company. She is naked but one hand covers her bosom and the other, holding a tip of her long red hair, covers her pudenda (of which the wide-open scallop is the blatant Freudian symbol). Note that Venus' eyes are modestly cast downward, she does not stare the viewer in the face. She is clearly ashamed of her nudity. Behind her is the calm sea from which she was born in a rather curious way: Cronus had usurped the throne from his father Uranus by cutting off Uranus' testicles and throwing them into the ocean - and from these genitals in the sea Venus came forth. As she was also said to have been born from the foam of the waves, Botticelli has painted rather manieristic, frothy wavelets behind her.

There are two figures flying through the sky on the left side of the painting: Zephyr, the god of the west wind, borne aloft on large wings, holding his wife Chloris in his arms. He is blowing with round cheeks, and we see the wind issuing from his mouth - it caresses the long hair of Venus. In the Mediterranean, the west wind is the gentlest of winds, the harbinger of spring. Zephyr's wife Chloris was a nymph associated with flowers and new growth and sometimes equated with the goddess Flora, the deity of spring. In the painting we see violets (symbol of love) tumbling through the sky around Chloris and Zephyr, as if springing from their presence. The arrival of Venus is also the coming of spring.

To the right, already on the shore, stands a handmaid carrying a cloak to cover the nude deity. This one of the Horae, the goddesses of the seasons. The red cloak decorated with a pattern of the same violets that fly through the sky is realistically blowing in the wind. Behind the handmaid we see a luxurious forest of large trees with straight stems.

What is behind this great painting?
  • Although no paintings have come down to us, we know from written sources that "Venus Rising From the Sea" (called Venus Anadyomene) was a popular theme in the ancient world. A famous (lost) painting was ascribed to Apelles of Kos (4th c. BCE), who was said to have employed Campaspe, the mistress of Alexander the Great, for his model. Elsewhere we find the suggestion that the idea of Venus rising from the sea was inspired by the ancient Greek hetaera (courtesan) Phryne, who in festival time often swam nude in the sea. 
  • Also the particular pose of Venus in Botticelli's painting is based on Classical precedent: that of the Venus of Knidos, which although lost, was copied many times. The original was made by the Greek sculptor Praxiteles in the 4th c. BCE. The Medici possessed one of such copies (dating from the 1st c. BCE and today also in the Uffizi Galleries), and allowed Botticello to study it. The Venus of Knidos was called "Venus Pudica," or "modest Venus," because of her attempt to shyly cover her nakedness with her hand. The goddess is depicted in a fugitive, momentary pose, as if surprised in the act of emerging from the sea. Ironically, the asymmetrical pose serves to draw the eye to the very spot that is being hidden.
  • The theme of the painting is taken from Ovid's Metamorphoses, an important and popular work of Roman literature. In Botticelli's time this theme was also taken up by the Neoplatonic poet Agnolo Poliziano, who like Botticelli served at the Medici court. Neoplatonism tried to link Greek and Roman philosophy with Christianity. In the light of that philosophy, the painting represents the "birth of spiritual beauty as a driving force of life."
  • The Venus in Botticelli's painting represents the Italian Renaissance ideal of female beauty: red-haired, pale-skinned and voluptuous. There is a heated discussion among art historians whether she is based on a historical person, Simonetta Vespucci (1453-1476), or not. Simonetta was the most beautiful woman of her age - and certainly of Florence - and her image was enhanced by her tragic early death from tuberculosis. At age 15 she had married Marco Vespucci and the couple became popular at court. The Vespucci's were related to Florence's ruling family, the Medicis, who commissioned the present work. Simonetta was called "The Unparalleled One," and Botticello seems to have been very much impressed by her beauty (he even asked to be buried at her feet), and he made several portraits of her. As the Venus-painting was made several years after her death it would be a posthumous tribute.
  • The Birth of Venus is a large format painting, 172.5 by 278.5 cm, the image of Venus is life-size and therefore all the more impressive. It was made on canvas (then a novelty) with tempera (a painting medium in which pigment is mixed with water-soluble glutinous materials such as egg yolk), and an expensive alabaster powder was used to make the colors brighter and more timeless. 
  • The creator, Sandro Botticelli, was an Italian painter of the early Renaissance. He was born in Florence in 1437 as the son of a tanner, and died in the same city in 1510. He was an apprentice of Fra Filippo Lippi. By 1470, Botticello had his own workshop. During his lifetime Botticello was one of the most acclaimed painters in Italy. He was invited to take part in the decoration of the Sistine Chapel in Rome and in his hometown he earned the important patronage of the Medici, the leading family of Florence. Although by the time of his death Botticelli's reputation was in decline, a complete reassessment has taken place since the 19th c. His work now is seen to represent the linear grace of Early Renaissance painting. Among his best known works are The Birth of Venus,  Primavera and Venus and Mars.
  • The Medici family commissioned The Birth of Venus, including two other now famous paintings by Botticelli, Pallas and the Centaur and Primavera (all now at the Uffizi). Family head Lorenzo the Magnificent may have given the commissions, but the paintings were meant for his cousin Lorenzo di Pierfrancesco de’ Medici (1463-1503), whose Palazzo in the Via Larga they were to decorate - apparently in a room dedicated to his bride, Semiramide Appiano. Besides being an ode to Classical mythology and literature, via this commission Botticelli's masterwork also forms an homage to the wealthy Florentine family who commissioned the work: the reign of (spiritual) love comes to Florence thanks to the vast culture of the Medici.
[Cnidus Aphrodite. Marble, Roman copy after a Greek original of the 4th century -
Wikipedia - Public Domain]

Note: The early 20th c. Italian composer Ottorino Respighi in 1926 composed a suite in three parts called "Trittico botticelliano," illustrating three Botticelli paintings - the third part is about Venus Rising from the Sea. Respighi has managed to translate Botticelli's decorative lines into translucent musical textures.

Paintings and their stories:

The Birth of Venus by Botticelli 

The Nightmare by Fuseli

Suzanna and the Elders by Gentileschi

Jupiter and Io by Coreggio

The Pretty Horsebreaker by Landseer

Girl in a white kimono by Breitner

Lady Godiva by Collier

The Roses of Heliogabalus by Alma-Tadema

Saint George and the Dragon by Uccello

Proserpine by Rosetti 

The Lady of Shalott by Waterhouse

Judith and Holofernes by Klimt

Nana by Manet

Symphony in White, No. 2, by Whistler



September 6, 2013

The Best Works for Oboe

My favorite string instrument is the cello (see my posts about the Best Cello Concertos and Best Cello Sonatas), so you might suppose that I would opt for the clarinet among the woodwind. But the clarinet is too "fuzzy" for me, the instrument I prefer is the oboe with its clear, nasal tone. The oboe has two faces, which makes it all the more interesting: "snappy" when played in fast movements, and sweetly melancholic in slower pieces.

As the original name, hautbois ("high wood", which was corrupted as "hoboy" and then "oboe" in English) shows, the instrument originated in France. That was in the mid-17th c., when it developed out of its predecessor, the shawm, the typical instrument of street bands (and, at least in literature, shepherds). Although the exact place and date of origin are not known, the Philidor and Hotteterre families may have been involved, and of course the instrument probably had multiple inventors.

The oboe is played with a double reed. This is one of the features it borrowed from the shawm, together with its conical bore, but on the other hand it also departed significantly from the older instrument, for example in the circumstance that the player places his lips directly on the reed with no intervening pirouette (a small cylindrical piece of wood which acted as a support for the lips). This new oboe quickly spread throughout Europe.

There are about nine other members in the oboe family, differing in size and timbre, such as the oboe d'amore and oboe da caccia, which both have a lower and warmer tone. We often find them in the pastoral movements of Bach's cantatas. Another member of the oboe family is the cor anglais ("English horn"), which is neither English nor a horn. It is an tenor hobo which was invented in Silesia around 1720, based on the oboe da caccia - it also found its way into the modern orchestra.

The oboe gradually developed further, gaining more keys - the modern oboe was developed in the 1860s by the French Triebert family. As the pitch of the oboe is not affected by temperature or humidity, and the instrument is easily audible over other instruments, symphony orchestras tend to tune to an A provided by the principal oboist.

The oboe was extremely popular in the Baroque period, when many concertos, sonatas and other works were written for the versatile instrument. The first oboe concertos were probably written by Albinoni in 1715, but these were quickly followed by concertos and sonatas by other Italian composers, such as Marcello and Vivaldi, and Germans as Telemann, or the Bohemian Zelenka. The 1720s saw a real explosion of oboe works, and the instrument remained popular for many decades, as is seen in the Classical works by Dittersdorf and Mozart.

But the oboe dropped out of sight during the Romantic period, when among the woodwinds the clarinet and flute with their essentially romantic timbre were more popular. (What there is from the 19th c., such as the small concerto by Bertini, or the pieces by Kalliwoda, is mostly salon music, which I skip.) Until I researched this post, I never realized that the oboe as solo instrument was totally eclipsed in the Romantic period...

Happily, the oboe has made a strong comeback in modern times - the large number of works written in for example England is striking (Bax, Vaughan Williams, Rawsthorne, Alwyn, Berkeley, Rubbra, Jacob, Holst, Moeran, etc) although these are all small-scale, intimate pieces, even the concertos. Somewhat larger-scale works were written by Richard Strauss, Wolf-Ferrari and the Dutchman Voormolen with his Concerto for Two Oboes. There is also an interesting body of modern instrumental and chamber music for the oboe.

[Oboe from the modern period]

1. Alessandro Ignazio Marcello, Concerto for Oboe in D minor [1716]
Alessandro Marcello (1673-1747) was a versatile Venetian nobleman, philosopher, mathematician and musician, who also painted and dabbled in literature. As the son of a senator, he led the comfortable life of a dilettante in an imposing palazzo on the Canal Grande. In that residence, he organized weekly concerts, where also his own compositions were performed. The present oboe concerto is Alessandro Marcello's most famous work, one of his twelve Concerti a Cinque, published in Amsterdam in 1716 by Jeanne Roger. The fine work was so much appreciated by Bach that he adapted it for keyboard. It was for a long time wrongly attributed to Alessandro's brother, Benedetto Marcello, who was in fact a more prolific composer. The first movement is an andante called "spiccato," which points at a style of playing a bowed stringed instrument in which the bow bounces slightly off the strings - or in general, any music which is played in that manner. The adagio of the concerto seems to be popular at wedding ceremonies, and indeed the oboe sings in rather ecstatic tones. The final presto scurries along like a mass of excitedly babbling people.
Recording listened to: Bruce Haynes, baroque oboe, with the Orchestra of the 18th Century directed by Frans Bruggen on Pro Arte. Authentic instruments and playing style.

2. Jan Dismas Zelenka, Sonata V in F major for Two Oboes with Obbligato Bassoon and Basso Continuo, ZWV 181 [1715-16]
Zelenka (1679–1745) was the most important Czech baroque composer, admired for its harmonic inventiveness and counterpoint. He studied in Prague but spent most of life in Dresden, where he was employed in the court orchestra. Between 1715 and 1719 he was allowed to travel for study to Vienna and Venice. As musicians at the Dresden court were not allowed to have their music published, Zelenka was forgotten for 200 years - the modern rediscovery started in the 1950s, and now we tend to agree with the judgement of Bach and Telemann, who regarded Zelenka as one of the most important composers of their time. Instrumental music represents only a small part of Zelenka's output, as he mainly wrote large-scale sacred music. The present sonata for 2 oboes forms part of a group of six, which sets standards of overall high virtuosity. The sonatas are in Sonata di chiesa form, except the fifth one, which has three movements fast-slow-fast. In the fast movements, oboe and bassoon are employed in their most expressive and technical capabilities; the slow movement has a fittingly sweet melancholy.
Recording listened to: Heinz Holliger and Maurice Bourgue, oboes, a.o., on Archiv (complete six trio sonatas for two oboes and obbligato bassoon)

3. Georg Philipp Telemann, Concerto in A major for Oboe d'Amore, Strings and Continuo TW 51:A2 [1717 or later]
The German Baroque composer Georg Philipp Telemann (1681–1767) is one of the most prolific composers in musical history. Much of his huge output is still little known and only slowly being rediscovered. It is of surprisingly high quality and great variety. Telemann managed to write in several styles and he always was at the forefront of new musical tendencies. From 1721 to the end of his life he settled down in Hamburg, where he was musical director of the city's five main churches. Telemann wrote about one hundred instrumental concertos, mostly for wind instruments. His concertos are usually in four movements, slow-fast-slow-fast. The oboe d'amore used in this concerto is somewhat larger than the normal oboe and possesses a warmer tone; it is so to speak the mezzo-soprano of the oboe family, between the oboe (soprano) and the cor anglais (alto). Telemann wrote three concertos for this instrument. The first slow movement of the concerto in A major is a beautiful pastoral siciliano, and the melancholic third movement a chaconne for solo instrument and basso continuo, framed by the tutti. In the finale Telemann presents an interesting set of strophic variations. The oboe d'amore fell out of fashion at the end of the 18th c., which is to be regretted as its tranquil and warm tone make it rather special.
Recording listened to: Heinz Holliger, Oboe d'amore, with Camerata Bern directed by Thomas Füri on Archiv Galleria (with oboe concertos by Graun and Krebs)

4. Antonio Vivaldi, Concerto for Oboe in A minor, RV 461 [1720s]
The great Baroque composer Vivaldi (1678-1741) wrote more than 500 concertos; about 350 are for solo instrument and strings, of which again 230 for violin; the others are for cello and viola d'amore, or for wind instruments like the bassoon, oboe, flute, or recorder. About 40 concertos are double concertos for two instruments and 30 are for three or more instruments. Vivaldi wrote 15 concertos for the oboe, and RV 461 in A minor may well be the finest. It is a work on which Vivaldi seems to have lavished special care. The accompaniments to the solo sections are imaginatively conceived, employing a variety of scorings, and the thematic material of the solo sections is related in an effective way to that of the tutti sections. The concerto probably dates from the 1720s, Vivaldi's third and mature period, which was marked by high productivity.
Recording listened to: David Reichenberg, oboe, with The English Concert directed by Trevor Pinnock on Archiv (with 5 other Vivalidi concertos under the general title "Alla Rustica"). Authentic instruments and playing style.

5. Tomaso Albinoni, Oboe Concerto in D minor, Op. 9, No. 2 [1722]
Albinoni (1671-1751) was the first composer to publish oboe concertos: his Op. 7 of 1715 contains 8 concertos for single oboe, and 8 for two oboes. So he would have headed this list, were it not that I have selected one of his Opus 9 concertos, which were written in 1722. These later concertos are longer and more richly elaborated. Their greatest strength lies in the lyrical writing for the solo instrument. The adagio of op. 9, No. 2 is a long-breathed cantilena of the oboe set against an unchanging background of undulating violin semiquavers - infinitely more beautiful than the notorious and spurious "Adagio of Albinoni" (in reality composed by a 20th c. musicologist).
Recording listened to: Anthony Robson, oboe, with the Collegium Musicum 90 conducted by Simon Standage on Chandos (with other oboe concertos by Albinoni). Authentic instruments and playing style.

6. Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach, Oboe Concerto in E Flat Major, Wq 165 [1765]
Carl Philipp Emanuel (1714-1788) was the second son of Johann Sebastian Bach. He studied law at universities in Leipzig and Frankfurt and in 1740 he became Court Harpsichordist at the court in Berlin of Frederick the Great, a position he would fulfill for almost thirty years. He was one of the best keyboard players of his time. In 1768 CPE Bach succeeded Telemann as Cantor in Hamburg, a position he would enjoy for the last twenty years of his life. CPE Bach was in the first place a keyboard virtuoso and his two oboe concertos were originally written as harpsichord concertos, before he reworked them for the oboe. The fast movements waver between the Late-Baroque and the Pre-Classical period. The first movement of the concerto in E flat major possesses an energetic rhythm that evokes the French style. The slow movement is the musical center of gravity - it is a grandiose funeral threnody. The last movement is characterized by CPE Bach's characteristic chromatic style.
Recording listened to: Ku Ebbinge, oboe, with The Amsterdam Baroque Orchestra conducted by Ton Koopman on Erato (with oboe concerto in B flat major, sonata in G minor). Authentic instruments and playing style.

7. August Karl Ditters von Dittersdorf, Concerto for Oboe and Orchestra in G major [1765-69]
The Austrian composer Dittersdorf (1739–1799) was born and educated in Vienna, where he also played as violinist in the orchestra of the Burgtheater. From 1765 to 1769 he worked for the Prince-Archbishop's court in Grosswardein in Hungary, as successor of Michael Haydn. After that, Dittersdorf became Kapellmeister in Johannisberg. But despite his faraway posts, he kept in contact with Vienna, where many of his larger works were premiered. Dittersdorf produced fifty operas, four oratorios, masses, more than a hundred symphonies, a variety of concertos and chamber music. Revered by church and aristocracy, the career of Dittersdorf in its heyday even overshadowed that of Haydn and Mozart, but at the end of his life he was already largely forgotten. That is difficult to understand when you hear his music now, he certainly must rank as one of the most important representatives of Viennese Classicism. Dittersdorf composed six oboe concertos (one of which is for oboe d'amore). The concerto in G major stands with both legs in the golden age of Viennese Classicism, an elegant work that deserves to be heard.
Recording listened to: Heinz Holliger, oboe, with Camerata Bern conducted by Thomas Füri on Archiv (with other concertos and symphonies by "the early Vienna School"). Also available on Hungaroton (complete oboe concertos by Dittersdorf).

8. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Oboe Concerto in C major, K314 [1777]
This concerto is better known in its version for flute (in D), but the oboe version that was discovered in 1920 in the Salzburg Mozarteum is the original one. Mozart wrote the concerto for the North-Italian oboe virtuoso Giuseppe Ferlendis, but it was also frequently played by the superb Mannheim oboist Friedrich Ramm. (Mozart made the flute version as he had a commission from the Dutch flutist Ferdinand De Jean, and through time pressure only managed to write one original flute concerto.) Despite the warm response the concerto received in Mozart's day, the oboe score later sank into oblivion. The first movement has witty repartees as in an opera; the slow movement is a straightforward aria for the oboe against a lovely cantilena in the strings; and the finale is a cheerful rondo on a theme Mozart liked well enough to use again, for the aria "Welche wonne, welche Lust" from Die Entführung aus dem Serail. The reason this concerto in the first place came down to us as a flute concerto is the above mentioned circumstance that in the Romantic period, oboe concertos were unfortunately "out." Mozart also wrote an oboe quartet (K 370).
Recording listened to: Michel Piguet, oboe, with The Academy of Ancient Music, directed by Christopher Hogwood on L'Oiseau-Lyre. Authentic instruments and playing style.

9. François Devienne, Oboe Sonata in C Op. 71 No. 3 [1799]
Born as the 14th child of a saddle maker, Devienne (1759 – 1803) was a French composer and professor for flute at the Paris Conservatory. He gained a European reputation as prodigious composer in various genres and for all manner of combinations. His music is characterized by classical grace and melodic originality. Devienne published 12 sonatas for oboe and basso continuo (Op. 70 and 71), probably in 1799. All works are in three movements. The oboe is dominant, the bass part has been relegated to a minor role. So compared with the duo sonatas of Mozart, formally these works are somewhat backward looking (but that is nothing strange - also Haydn's piano trios of the 1790s are "backward looking"). And the vivacity of the music makes everything good. The sonata in C Op. 71.3 starts with an allegro in sonata form; the second movement is an expressive aria; and the finale is a graceful sets of variations getting increasingly more virtuoso.
Recording listened to: Burkhard Glaetzner, oboe, with Christine Schornsheim, pianoforte, and Siegfried Pank, cello, on Brilliant Classics (with three more oboe sonatas by Devienne). Authentic instruments and playing style.


[Classical oboe]

10. Arnold Bax, Quintet for Oboe and String Quartet [1922]
The English composer Arnold Bax (1883 – 1953) blended elements of romanticism and impressionism in his music, often with influences from Celtic or Irish literature and landscape. His scores are noted for their complexity and colorfulness. The Oboe Quintet was written just after Bax completed his First Symphony and is quintessential Bax in his Irish style. The mood of the rhapsodic first movement is predominantly dark. The slow movement is an atmospheric lento, starting with a long introduction in which the strings alone play a gorgeous tune. In the finale the composer brushes aside his somber mood and introduces a wild Irish dance, on a tune of Bax's own invention. The texture of the quartet is very rich, so it not surprising that it was later orchestrated by Sir John Barbirolli as a Concerto for Oboe.
Recording listened to: Sarah Francis, oboe, with the English String Quartet on Chandos (with oboe quartets by Holst, Jacob and Moeran)

11. Ermanno Wolf-Ferrari, Idillo - Concertino in A major for Oboe and Small Orchestra [1932]
With a German father and Italian mother, Wolf-Ferrari (1876-1948) grew up in two cultures, as symbolized by his name in which he combined those of both parents. He was born in Venice and is buried there, but he lived much of his life in Munich and Salzburg. In the first place active as opera composer, he was most popular in the years before the Great War. Wolf-Ferrari also wrote a number of lyrical orchestral works, among which concertos for oboe and for cor anglais. The oboe concerto is written in a warm, late-Romantic style, but the structure is neo-classical. The concerto is in four movements: the fast movements sparkle, while the adagio is the emotional center of the work. Unbelievable that such a delightful work can be forgotten...
Recording listened to: Andrea Tenaglia, oboe, with the Orchestra Sinfonica di Roma directed by Franceso La Vecchia on Naxos (with concertos for cor anglais and bassoon)

12. Alexander Voormolen, Concerto for Two Oboes and Orchestra [1933]
The Dutch composer Alexander Voormolen (1895-1980) studied composition with Johan Wagenaar in Utrecht. In 1916 he went to Paris where he studied with Albert Roussel and also became acquainted with Ravel, who supported him. Voormolen was a Francophile and his music stands in the French rather than in the German tradition. Later on, Voormolen searched for a true Dutch musical style, as in his large piano work Tableaux des Pays-Bas and the Baron Hop Suites. From 1923 Voormolen settled in The Hague, where he became librarian of the Royal Conservatory. He also was music reviewer for an important Dutch newspaper. The present double concerto was written for the Dutch oboist Jaap Stotijn and his son Haakon, who premiered the work in 1935 in The Hague. The score is very virtuoso and full of spirit and also humor. There are hints at popular dance, while the concerto is broadly neo-classical. The slow movement is a beautiful arioso. The concerto was very popular in its time, and indeed, it is one of the best 20th c. oboe concertos I know.
Recording listened to: Pauline Oostenrijk and Hans Roerade, oboes, with the Residentie Orchestra The Hague conducted by Matthias Bamert on Chandos (with Voormolen's Baron Hop Suites 1& 2)

13. Ralph Vaughan Williams, Concerto in A minor for Oboe and Strings [1944]
Vaughan Williams (1872 – 1958) was an English composer who worked in a great variety of genres, including film music - his interesting double name without a hyphen is of Welsh origin. Vaughan Williams studied at the Royal College of Music with Stanford and later Parry. Here he also befriended fellow-student Gustav Holst. Vaughan Williams early on became interested in folk song, which he collected. As a central figure in British music he wrote 9 symphonies, several large oratorios, and concerts not only for the piano, but also for rarely used solo instruments as the tuba. His oboe concerto was written for soloist Léon Goossens in 1944. It is a typically English pastoral piece and is divided into three movements: a lightweight first movement, rondo pastorale, then a short minuet and musette, and a scherzo which is the longest and weightiest movement, although it ends on a wistful note. The entire concerto is suffused with a gentle melancholy.
Recording listened to: David Theodore, oboe, with The London Symphony Orchestra conducted by Bryden Thomson on Chandos (with 3rd symphony)

14. Richard Strauss, Concerto for Oboe and Small Orchestra in D major [1945]
The late-Romantic German composer Richard Strauss (1864 – 1949) was in the first place known for his operas, his songs and his tone poems. He was a subtle orchestrator, who wrote in an advanced harmonic style. His output of concertante works was also fairly extensive. The most famous of these are the two concertos for horn, a violin concerto, a burleske for piano and orchestra, a duet concertino for bassoon and clarinet, and an oboe concerto. The Oboe Concerto in D was written towards the end of Strauss' life, during a period often called "his Indian summer" - he was over 80 years old when he wrote it! The oboe concerto is a neo-classical work with clear thematic analogies to 18th c. music - although typical Straussian harmonies are not absent. The concerto is in four movements and full if wit. Among the ruins of WWII, Mozart and Viennese Classicism must have appeared like a bright light in the surrounding darkness.
Recording listened to: Martin Gabriel, Oboe, with the Wiener Philharmoniker, directed by Andre Previn, on Deutsche Grammophon

15. Alan Rawsthorne, Concerto for Oboe and Strings [1947]
Rawsthorne (1905 - 1971) graduated from The Royal Manchester College of Music, and after first working as a pianist, from the 1930s he followed a career as freelance composer. Rawsthorne possesses a highly distinctive musical voice. He wrote an impressive number of symphonic works, nine concertos, and a large body of chamber music. His oboe concerto was dedicated to Evelyn Rothwell, the wife of Sir John Barbirolli. The first movement, with its slow and majestic opening, is modeled on the style of the French overture from the Baroque period. There is an animated middle section, before the opening is restated in a plaintive way. The middle movement is an allegretto, with a sad but tender tone - an introspective piece of music. The last movement is a vivace that with figures based on the jig and the tarantella dances towards its close.
Recording listened to: Stephane Rancourt, oboe, with the Royal Scottish National Orchestra conducted by David Lloyd-Jones on Naxos (with cello concerto and Symphonic Studies) 

16. Francis Poulenc, Sonata for Oboe and Piano, Op. 185 [1962]
The French composer Poulenc (1899 – 1963) was a member of the group Les Six (with Honegger, Milhaud and others). His music, which covers all genres and is always tonal, can be mischievous and witty, but also serenely mystical. At the end of his life Poulenc wrote three sonatas for wind instruments. The sonata for oboe and piano dates from 1962 and is dedicated to the memory of Sergei Prokofiev. It is a sad and lonely work, a sort of valediction. The three movements are called Elégie, Scherzo and Déploration, a slow-fast-slow scheme. In the last movement, to express his mournful feelings, Poulenc uses the extremes of the oboe. It was also the last piece Poulenc wrote before his death early the next year. The sonata was performed posthumously in 1963, with Pierre Pierlot as oboist.
Recording listened to: Maurice Bourgue, oboe, and Pascal Roge, piano, on Decca (with the sonatas for flute and clarinet as well as the trio and sextet)


Classical Music Index

September 3, 2013

Best Traditional Towns in Japan - Western Japan (Takahashi, Tomonoura and Onomichi)

There are still several traditional towns in Japan where modernization ("concrete-ization") has been less rampant than in the larger cities. Here are a few of my favorites in Western Japan (Okayama and Hiroshima Prefectures): Bitchu-Takahashi, Tomonoura, and Onomichi. Although I give suggestions for visits to temples and small museums in these towns, in the first place they are all just nice for a relaxed stroll through narrow lanes with old houses...


[Takahashi - Raikyuji's Garden]
1. Bitchu-Takahashi
The tiny former castle town of Takahashi stretches north to south along the Takahashi River. Lying in a mountainous region of great scenic beauty, it has a thriving merchant district of Edo-era buildings near the river and a well-preserved section of samurai homes, still occupied by the descendants of that martial class. Takahashi also features several interesting temples, of which Shorenji and Yakushi-en stand on high stone platforms. The place to visit is, however, Raikyuji, which boasts a fine garden laid out by Kobori Enshu. The samurai houses stand in the Ishibayacho district, just beyond Raikyuji. The castle was built in 1683 and sitting at 420 meters above sea level, is the highest castle in Japan. There is a great view of the surrounding hills from the castle hill (but it is a pain to get there, so you may opt to observe the castle hill from the town!) P.S. "Bitchu" is the name of this region in Okayama; it is added to the name of the town because there are more towns of the name "Takahashi" in Japan.

Places to visit are:
  • The Zen-temple Raikyuji. The renowned garden designer and tea master Kobori Enshu (1579-1647) served as governor of Takahashiand at that time lived in Raikyuji. He designed the present garden in 1604. The shakkei garden is characterized by a bold, wavelike hedge and in its daring design can stand comparison with the best gardens in Kyoto. 
  • Shorenji. This Nichiren temple is noted for its stone-walled terraces, which create an unusual effect.
  • Ishibaiyacho district with samurai houses. Two samurai residences (the Haibara Samurai Residence and the Orii Samurai Residence) are open to the public. 
  • In the merchant quarter near the river, one merchant residence can be visited: the Ikegami Merchant House, a soy sauce producer.
  • There are two small museums in town, the Takahashi Folk Museum (in an atmospheric building) and the Takahashi Historical Museum.
  • Bitchu-Matsuyama-jo. The highest mountain fortress in Japan. It retains the features of a medieval mountain fortress, although the present keep is more modern, from 1683. The castle is little visited as it stands a 20 min taxi ride outside the town. Climbing the hill takes another 15 min.

    Bitchu-Takahashi is 36 min by Yakumo Express from Okayama City, or 55 min by ordinary train via the Hakubi Line.

    Bitchu-Takahashi in Japan Guide (with a handy map). Japan Times article


    P.S. Fukiya, deeper into the mountains, is a copper mining town with old rust-colored houses, but as it is an hour by infrequent bus from Bitchu-Takahashi, it is rather difficult to get to by public transport.

[Tomo no Ura] 

2. Tomonoura
A little gem of a fisher's village with superb views over the Inland Sea, and an interesting place to stroll through the winding, narrow streets. Located on the southern point of the Nunakuma Peninsula, Tomonoura has been a famous scenic spot since the Nara period, when it was eulogized in the Manyoshu poetry collection. It was always a center for Inland Sea trade and many travellers passed through the town - the most important are the Korean embassies which came to Japan in the Edo-period (it was usual for travelers from Kyushu to Edo to travel through the Inland Sea by boat, before landing in Muronotsu in Hyogo Pref. and then - after visiting Osaka and Kyoto - hitting the Tokaido Highway). They would lodge in the Taichoro Pavilion of Fukuzenji Temple from which they could enjoy the view of three small islands in the bay, one adorned with a red pagoda. This Chinese-style landscape would be perfectly framed in the windows of their lodgings. Another visitor to Tomonoura was koto-composer Miyagi Michio (1894–1956), who was here inspired to write his masterwork, "Haru no Umi," or "The Spring Sea." In addition, anime-director Miyazaki Hayao developed his idea for the film Ponyo on a Cliff by the Sea (2008) while staying in Tomonoura.

Note: Tomonoura is in some danger of having its scenery spoiled by "development," such as a large bridge which may cut right through the small port town. See this article by WMF (the World Monuments Fund). 

Places to visit are:
  • Fukuzenji and Taichoro (Wave-facing Pavilion), the temple with pavilion where the Korean Embassies lodged, just next to the modern ferry landing. There are several memorabilia from these embassies on view, such as a calligraphy dated 1711 praising the view.
  • The Old Town with rows of fine old houses plus a distillery that makes Homeishu, a traditional medicinal liqueur.
  • The Temple and Shrine quarter in the north-east part of the town. The most interesting temple is Ankokuji, which has a 13th c.  Shaka Hall which is said to be one of the oldest Zen-style halls in Japan; the temple also has an interesting wooden Amida Triad; the Nunakuma Shrine - though itself concrete - has an early 17th c. Noh stage (presumably from Hideyoshi's Fushimi Castle in Kyoto).
  • Tomonoura Museum of History and Folklore. Local history and folklore museum. Includes a display of tai-ami, the fishing for sea bream (tai) which takes place in May with one large net pulled by a number of small boats. Other displays include a blacksmith's workshop for anchor making, and a koto used by Miyagi Michio.

    Tomonoura is 35 min by Tomotetsu bus from Fukuyama Station on the Shinkansen and Sanyo lines.

    English website of Fukuyama Tourist Information. Japan Times article.


Onomichi
 [Onomichi]

3. Onomichi
Onomichi is a port town on the inland sea, a traditional shipping center. For non-Japanese it is famous thanks to the iconic images at the beginning and end of Ozu Yasujiro's Tokyo Story, where it is the hometown of the elderly couple. It does not lie on the open sea, but across a channel we find the aptly name Mukai ("opposite") Island, now linked via a bridge. Onomichi lies on a steep hillside, crisscrossed by a warren of narrow slopes. The hills are studded with temples and there are also a few interesting small museums, as well as many literature monuments and film shooting spots. There is also a suitably old-fashioned Shotengai (arcaded shopping street). Onomichi is a starting point for trips to islands in the Inland Sea, either by bus via the new bridge system (Shimanami Kaido) or, as of old, by boat.

Places to visit are:
  • Jodoji Temple, at the eastern end of the town. The temple boasts a Main hall and a Tahoto Pagoda which are both national treasures. Visitors can also view a tea house that purportedly came from Hideyoshi's Fushimi Castle in Kyoto, and an interesting treasure house. Jodoji is a good starting point for a walk along the other temples, as Tenneiji (three-storied pagoda) and Saikokuji (with its gigantic straw sandals). Take a 5-min bus or taxi to Jodoji, and then walk back in a western direction towards the station and the hill with Senkoji.
  • Senkoji Temple can be reached by ropeway and is a sort of tourist trap, but the good thing is the view over the Inland sea from the temple, which is justly celebrated (and you can hike up the hill instead of using the ropeway). There is also a "literature walk" on the hill along stones on which haiku and other works have been carved (but you need some Japanese ability to appreciate this). 
  • The Onomichi Motion Picture Museum - see my previous post on Ozu Museums and Shooting Locations.
  • The Onomichi Literature Museum - comprising the residence of 20th c. writer Shiga Naoya. Another famous author who lived in Onomichi is Hayashi Fumiko (she went to high school here).
  • The Onomichi Museum of Art, designed by Ando Tadao.

    Onomichi has a Shinkansen Station, but that lies rather far from the city center. Coming from the east, it is easier to take an ordinary train on the JR Sanyo Line from Fukuyama - this takes only 18 min.

    Onomichi City English website. Japan Times article. Japan Guide with map.