[Shinobazu Pond - Photo Ad Blankestijn]
The tour can only be done from Jan. 1 to 7 - at other times most of the temples are not open and it will be impossible to collect the stamps or see the statues. There is another advantage of doing the tour in early January: the stream of visitors will help you find the temples. Although you will get a map at the first temple, you will find out that Yanaka is a warren of small streets and that it is not easy to find all deities - but on New Year's Day, you can just go with the flow.
[Bentendo - Photo Ad Blankestijn]
Benzaiten in Shinobazuike Bentendo
We start conveniently in Ueno, with the Benten Temple that stands in the Shinobazu Pond. In the gray past, Shinobazu Pond was an inlet in the bay of Tokyo. Later it dwindled into a pond and received the name "Pond without Endurance" to contrast with the neighboring hill that was named Shinobu-ga-oka, "Hill of Endurance." After Abbot Tenkai had founded Kan'eiji on that hill in the early 17th c., he looked down on the pond and was reminded of the sight of the famous Lake Biwa near Kyoto (well, with a lot of imagination...). That lake is famous for Chikubushima Island featuring a Benten Temple and so Shinobazu Pond also got its small island and Benten Hall.
In the late 17th c. the causeway was built conveniently linking the hall to the shore. The Hall burned down in WWII but was rebuilt and again features the statue of the Goddess of the Arts and Music - the statue, supposedly carved by 9th c. Tendai-monk Ennin, apparently survived the bombs. In August, the pond is covered with a dense vegetation of lotus flowers.
[Gokokuji - Photo Ad Blankestijn]
Daikoku in Gokokuji
Rare in Tokyo, Gokokuji sports a main hall that has survived intact from Edo times, 1724 to be precise. The small temple was founded in the 17th c. by a disciple of the above mentioned Tenkai and served as a subsidiary hall of Kan'eiji. The main position at the altar is taken up by a fine Daikoku statue - he even stands in front of the main image, a Shaka Nyorai. That this temple has some affinity with Shinto as well is shown by the presence of a Kagura Hall, a stage for dances to the gods in the precincts.
[Tennoji - Photo Ad Blankestijn]
Tennoji used to be one of Edo's busiest temples, as it was one of the three religious establishments in Edo licensed to hold lotteries (tomikuji). Although established in the 13th c. by Nichiren, in 1699 it was placed under the jurisdiction of neighbouring Kan'eiji. Most buildings were destroyed in the last stand of the Tokugawa loyalists in 1868. A famous pagoda survived, the subject of a novella by Meiji author Koda Rohan, but this structure was unfortunately destroyed in a double lover's suicide in 1957. Now only the foundation stones are left. The temple itself is not more than a handful of small buildings in the corner of Yanaka cemetery. Most halls have been newly rebuilt in modern style - the only historical element is a large bronze Buddha dating from 1690, who sits in the open air. Bishamon, whom we visit here, has a small hall all his own.
[Choanji - Photo Ad Blankestijn]
Jorujin in Choanji
There is not much to say about Choanji, which is so small you would not normally notice it in Yanaka's labyrint. It has a small statue of Jurojin, but except receiving your stamp and casting a glance at this statue, there is nothing to keep you here.
[Shusho-in - Photo Ad Blankestijn]
Hotei in Shusho-in
The Nichiren temple Shusho-in was founded in 1573 and about a century later moved to the present location. It has quite an impressive Hotei, housed in its own room in the basement of the modern temple building, where you also get your stamp.
[Seiunji - Photo Ad Blankestijn]
Sei'unji, a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect, is also known as Hanamidera, "Flower Viewing Temple", because of the cherry trees and azaleas that were planted in its grounds in the 18th c. It was therefore the pride of what once was "the village of Nippori" - now the only green in this part of the city are the trees and plants in the temple garden.
[Tokakuji - Photo Ad Blankestijn]
Fukurokuju in Tokakuji
The two Nio standing outside Tokakuji are known as Red-Paper Nio, after the countless red paper strips glued on them by believers. If you have a physical problem, you have to stick a strip of red paper on the same part of the Nio statue. There seem to be a lot of people with problems, as the statues are completely covered in red papers. Tokakuji is a pleasant temple, with a small garden at the back where you will find stone statues of the Seven Deities as well. It is a fitting goal for the Yanaka Tour.