Haiku Travels
Nihonmatsu (Fukushima)
the Black Mound -
around the traveler
swarms of black flies
Kurozuka ya / buto tabijin wo / oimawaru
黒塚やぶと旅人を追いまわる
Kyotai（暁台）
[Kurozuka, the Black Mound, in Kanzeji Temple, Nihonmatsu]
Once part of the ancient Mutsu Province, Nihonmatsu flourished as a post station on the Oshu Kaido Highway and as the castle town of the Niwa family, holding a 100,700 koku domain during the Edo period. Though Nihonmatsu Castle, also known as Kasumigajo Castle, was razed during the Boshin Civil War in 1868, its grounds remain a cherished historical site. Renowned for cherry blossom viewing and the Chrysanthemum Doll Festival in the fall, the castle's main gate, Minowamon, has been reconstructed, offering breathtaking panoramic views from its hilltop donjon.
Nihonmatsu boasts a notable sake brewing tradition, with four prominent companies (Daishichi, Okunomatsu, Ninki, and Senkonari) contributing to its reputation. While not a bustling tourist hub, Nihonmatsu offers an enriching experience for those seeking off-the-beaten-path destinations. Its Lantern Festival (October 4 to 6) exudes an authentic local charm, distinct from typical tourist attractions.
[Nihonmatsu seen from the donjon of Kasumigajo castle]
Haiku poet Kato Kyotai (1732-1792), born in Nagoya, initially served the Owari-Tokugawa family before dedicating himself to haiku at the age of 27. Revered as a latter-day disciple of Basho within the Basho revival movement initiated by Buson in the 1760s, Kyotai endeavored to elevate haiku from the mundane to the sublime through keen observations of the world around him.
Kurozuka, or the Black Mound, situated on the premises of Kanzeji Temple just outside Nihonmatsu's center (near Adachi Station), is steeped in the legend of the Onibaba Goblin—a malevolent old woman who preyed upon unsuspecting travelers from her cave dwelling. According to the tale, a wandering priest, seeking refuge one evening, unwittingly stumbled upon the Onibaba's lair. Despite being warned not to venture into the back room, the priest's curiosity led him to a ghastly discovery: a mound of human bones. Fleeing in terror, the priest narrowly escaped the clutches of the Onibaba, who transformed into a fearsome monster in pursuit. Only through the intervention of the Bodhisattva Kannon, symbolized by a statue carried by the priest, was the goblin subdued, finding peace through the teachings of Buddha. The tragic backstory of the Onibaba—a former wet nurse driven to madness by a haunting realization—adds depth to the chilling legend.
She was originally a wet nurse in an aristocratic mansion in Kyoto. Unfortunately, the girl she cared for was born with an incurable disease and could not speak. A fortune teller told the nurse that the child she loved so much could be cured if she could get the liver from the fetus in the womb of a pregnant woman. So she set off for the faraway Mutsu province, where no one knew her, to obtain this so-called medicine by illegal means, leaving her own newborn daughter behind in Kyoto. After many years, one evening a young couple who had lost their way asked for shelter. The young woman was pregnant and went into labor at that moment. The husband went out to buy medicine. It was a perfect opportunity. The nurse took out a large knife and attacked the young woman, cutting the liver out of the fetus. At that moment, however, the murderer saw the protective amulet that the young woman was wearing. The woman she had just killed was none other than her own daughter, whom she had left behind in Kyoto! This was such a huge shock that she became mentally unbalanced and turned into the Onibaba Goblin, who lurked in her cave to attack travelers....
What a horrible story. Folk tales are often very gruesome. But that was not how Kyotai approached the subject. Fortunately, Kyotai's haiku is pure irony: instead of being pursued by the legendary old crone Onibaba when he visits Kurozuka, the poet is besieged by a swarm of large black flies!
Kurozuka, or the Black Mound, situated on the premises of Kanzeji Temple just outside Nihonmatsu's center (near Adachi Station), is steeped in the legend of the Onibaba Goblin—a malevolent old woman who preyed upon unsuspecting travelers from her cave dwelling. According to the tale, a wandering priest, seeking refuge one evening, unwittingly stumbled upon the Onibaba's lair. Despite being warned not to venture into the back room, the priest's curiosity led him to a ghastly discovery: a mound of human bones. Fleeing in terror, the priest narrowly escaped the clutches of the Onibaba, who transformed into a fearsome monster in pursuit. Only through the intervention of the Bodhisattva Kannon, symbolized by a statue carried by the priest, was the goblin subdued, finding peace through the teachings of Buddha. The tragic backstory of the Onibaba—a former wet nurse driven to madness by a haunting realization—adds depth to the chilling legend.
She was originally a wet nurse in an aristocratic mansion in Kyoto. Unfortunately, the girl she cared for was born with an incurable disease and could not speak. A fortune teller told the nurse that the child she loved so much could be cured if she could get the liver from the fetus in the womb of a pregnant woman. So she set off for the faraway Mutsu province, where no one knew her, to obtain this so-called medicine by illegal means, leaving her own newborn daughter behind in Kyoto. After many years, one evening a young couple who had lost their way asked for shelter. The young woman was pregnant and went into labor at that moment. The husband went out to buy medicine. It was a perfect opportunity. The nurse took out a large knife and attacked the young woman, cutting the liver out of the fetus. At that moment, however, the murderer saw the protective amulet that the young woman was wearing. The woman she had just killed was none other than her own daughter, whom she had left behind in Kyoto! This was such a huge shock that she became mentally unbalanced and turned into the Onibaba Goblin, who lurked in her cave to attack travelers....
What a horrible story. Folk tales are often very gruesome. But that was not how Kyotai approached the subject. Fortunately, Kyotai's haiku is pure irony: instead of being pursued by the legendary old crone Onibaba when he visits Kurozuka, the poet is besieged by a swarm of large black flies!
Nihonmatsu stands as a testament to history, offering a serene and authentic atmosphere untouched by mass tourism. Easily accessible via the Tohoku Main Line, the town is a mere 25-minute train ride from both Koriyama and Fukushima. Visitors can explore notable attractions such as Kasumigajo Castle, renowned for its cherry blossoms, and Kanzeji Temple, where the haunting legend of the Onibaba unfolds. Local festivals, including the Lantern Festival and the Chrysanthemum Doll Festival, provide glimpses into Nihonmatsu's vibrant cultural heritage. Sake enthusiasts will delight in tours offered by the city's esteemed breweries (such as kimoto-brewer Daishichi), while nature lovers can unwind at Dake Onsen, nestled on the slopes of Mt. Adatara. For practical travel information, consult the Nihonmatsu Travel Guide provided by the municipality.