September 27, 2022

Haiku Travels (33): Basho and Iga-Ueno, Part One (Mie Prefecture)

Haiku Travels

Iga-Ueno (Mie Prefecture)

 

should I take it in my hand

it would melt in my hot tears -

frost of autumn

te ni toraba kien | namida zo atsuki | aki no shimo

手にとらば消んなみだぞ あつき秋の霜


Basho



[Haiseiden, Iga-Ueno]

Basho's place of birth, Iga-Ueno, boasts many monuments celebrating its most famous citizen. Although there were long absences as well, Basho loved his home town and the family of his older brother and sisters still living there. After his move to Edo, he visited at least eight times and often used the town during longer stays as a base for trips in the vicinity. We will make a tour through the city and the haiku Basho wrote here in two parts.

Basho was born in Ueno in the old province of Iga (modern Mie Pref.) in the year 1644. The day and month of his birth are unknown. His name as a child was Kinsaku; he had an older brother Hanzaemon and four sisters. His father, Matsuo Yozaemon, was probably a landed farmer who was allowed some of the privileges of a samurai, such as having a family name. About his mother we only know that her parents had emigrated from Iyo Province (now Ehime prefecture). The family status was respectable, but not particularly high.

In 1656, when Basho is 13, his father dies. Within the next several years (the precise date is not known) Basho enters the service of Todo Yoshikiyo, a relative of the feudal lord ruling the province. As no record of his service survives, his official rank may have been low and his duties minor. But he soon joined the circle of Yoshikiyo's son, Yoshitada, who was two years Basho's senior and who wrote haikai as a pastime under the pseudonym Sengin.

One of the earliest surviving documents referring to Basho, shows that he, under the haikai name Sobo, participated in a haikai gathering headed by Sengin on December 19, 1665. Sengin's haikai teacher, Kitamura Kigin (1624-1705), sent a verse to the gathering. Kigin belonged to the Teimon school of haikai, the most influential one at the time, which aimed at an elegant, witty style with wordplay and allusions to classical court culture. This was the type of haikai Basho learned when he began writing himself.

On May 28, 1666, Basho's young master Todo Yoshitada died suddenly; he was only 25. It is not clear what Basho did during the next six years, from 1666 to 1671. Although he left the service of the Todo family, Basho probably continued to live in Ueno, occasionally visiting Kyoto and other cities nearby. In haiku written at this time, he refers to himself as "Sobo of Ueno in Iga Province." We have a sprinkling left of haiku written in those years, which appeared in haiku anthologies compiled by reputed masters.

On February 23, 1672, Basho dedicated a poetry contest book Kai Oi ("Shell Matching") to the Ueno Tenjingu shrine near his parents' house (see below for Basho's haiku). The book, probably handwritten by Basho himself, paired 60 hokku composed by 36 local poets. Basho served as referee and passed judgement on all 30 matches. The dedication of Kai Oi may have been Basho's way of bidding farewell to his native town. In the spring of 1672 Basho moved to Edo to become a professional haikai master, taking students and correcting their verses for a fee.



[Basho-o Seika (the house where Basho was born)]


Basho's mother had died in 1683, but at that time he didn't have the financial means for the long journey to Ueno. But the next year Basho traveled to the Kansai area on a long trip (later described in his Journal of Bleached Bones in a Field), and he visited his family on October 16, staying a few days. He had been away for eight years. At that time, the haiku at the top of this article was written. Basho also wrote a long explanatory note: 'At the beginning of the Ninth Month I came back home. Nothing of my late mother remained there anymore. All had changed from what I remembered. My older brother, now with white hair in his side-locks and wrinkles around his eyebrows, could only say: "How lucky we are to meet alive again." Then he opened a keepsake bag and and said to me: "Pay your respects to mother's white hair. They say the legendary Urashima's hair turned white the instant he opened the souvenir box he had brought back from the dragon palace. Now your eyebrows look a little white, too." We wept together for some time.' (quoted from Basho and His Interpreters, p. 112)

"Urashima" refers to a famous legend, in which a young man visits the Dragon Lady's palace under the sea. After many years he finally returns to his old village, and finding nothing he can remember, he disobeys the lady's order and opens a jewel box she has given him. Instantly, he turns into an old man.

Basho says that he can not take the white hair in his hand, because if he were to do so, his hot tears would melt it away like autumn frost.


[Ueno Tenjingu shrine]

The first haiku by Basho that has been preserved for us, was written on February 7, 1663. It is a bantering poem in the Teimon school style:

was it spring that arrived
or the year that went away?
still December 29 today!

haru ya koshi | toshi ya yukiken | kotsugomori

In the lunar calendar, February 7 (in our calendar) was the 29th of the 12th month (also known as Second Last Day, kotsugomori). Normally, spring would start on the lunar New Year's Day, but in rare cases, the first day of spring (also called Risshun) arrived one or more days earlier. In other words, the beginning of spring sometimes fell within the old year, and that inspired Basho to this witty, but also rather rhetorical verse. Also in style with the Teimon school is that he is in fact parodying a well-known waka which opens the Kokinshu:
springtime has arrived
before the old year is gone
what about the rest of the year -
are we to talk of 'last year'
or are we to say 'this year'?

toshi no uchi ni | haru wa kinikeri | hitotose wo | kozo to ya iwamu | kotoshi to ya iwamu

The haiku is mainly noteworthy for its bantering tone.

The same is largely true of the following haiku, which Basho wrote for Kai Oi, the book with the haiku contest he refereed as a farewell gesture to Iga-Ueno just before leaving for Edo in 1672.

come and look
put on a Jinbei robe
and admire the blossoms

kite mo miyo | Jinbe ga haori | hanagoromo

Here, too, wordplay is central: "kite" has the double meaning of "come" and "wear" and "haori" means both "robe" and "surrender to (the beauty of the blossoms)." A haori is a half coat without sleeves, as worn by men during the winter in Basho's time; a Jinbe-baori is a padded haori. "Hanagoromo" is a flowery costume, a kimono used for viewing cherry blossoms. The first two phrases of the haiku are taken from popular songs of the day. So technically this is a very intricate haiku.

When Basho left for Edo that year, he wrote the following farewell haiku to a friend who remained in Ueno:

friend beyond the clouds -
just like wild geese
we part from each other

kumo to hedatsu | tomo ka ya kari no | ikiwakare

Although this is a much better poem (it has real feeling), it still engages in wordplay: "kari", wild goose/geese also has the meaning "temporary," so Basho expresses his hope he will see his friend again in the future. Wild geese are migratory birds that leave Japan in spring and return in autumn.     

Basho spots in Iga-Ueno:

Haisenden Hall, a sort of shrine dedicated to Basho and built in 1942. Inside sits a Basho statue in a meditative pose made of Iga-yaki pottery, but the hall can not be entered. In fact, it is most interesting for its weird shape: the upper cypress bark roof resembles a sedge hat, and the first story roof a straw raincoat: Basho in traveling attire. On October 12 (the day of Basho's death) the Basho festival is celebrated here, with a haiku contest and pilgrimages to places associated with the poet.
Grounds free. The hall can not be entered.

Basho Memorial Hall. The small museum displays scroll paintings, calligraphy and old book editions all related to Basho's haiku. There are no English labels, but you will find several haiga paintings here with famous Basho haiku.
8:30-17:00. Cl. Mon, day after public holiday, Dec. 29 - Jan. 3.

The House of Basho's Birth (Basho-o Seika) is a two kilometer walk from Ueno Park, on one of the main arteries leading into town. It is a well-preserved 17th c. townhouse, narrow and deep. The rooms are small, but the kitchen space is large. Basho was born here in 1644 and lived in the house until he was 22, and perhaps even until he was 26 - at that time he permanently moved from the Kansai to Edo. At the back, in a garden, stands a separate cottage called Chogetsuken ('Moon Hanging Eaves') where Basho used to stay when he visited home in later life.
8:30-17:00. Cl. Tuesday, Dec. 29 - Jan. 3. Tel. 0595-21-2219.

Ueno Tenjin Shrine (Ueno Tenjingu, also called Sugawara Jinja) has a special connection with Basho. When the poet was 29, he had compiled his first anthology, a series of 30 verse matchings from haikai friends in the Iga area with his commentaries. This work, called Kai Oi (Shell Matching) was dedicated to the shrine by Basho and subsequently taken to Edo where it served to introduce the new poet as an arbiter of taste. Although based on an older village shrine, the Tenjin shrine was established in its present form by the first castle lord in the early 17th century, at the same time that Ueno as a town was given form. The shrine is famous for the greatest annual festival in Iga-Ueno, the 400 year old Tenjin Matsuri, celebrated on Oct. 25
Grounds free.


Translations and Studies of Basho:
Basho's Haiku, 2 vols,  by Toshiharu Oseko (1990 & 1996, Maruzen); Basho and his Interpreters, Selected Hokku with Commentary, by Makoto Ueda (1992, Stanford U.P.); Traces of Dreams, Landscape, Cultural Memory, and the Poetry of Basho, by Haruo Shirane (1998, Stanford U.P.); Basho's Narrow Road, by Hiroaki Sato (1996, Stone Bridge Press); Basho's Journey, The Literary Prose of Matsuo Basho, by David Landis Bamhill (2005, State University of New York).

Photos in this post are my own work.