October 21, 2022

Reading The Tale of Genji (45): The Maiden of the Bridge (Hashihime)

 

 Hashihime

Title

"The Maiden of the Bridge" was a mythical female guardian deity of the bridge over the Uji River. The name "Hashihime" is used in a poem by Kaoru to Oigimi, in which he likens himself to a ferryman who is adrift between the secular world and the far shore of the next life, while Hashihime is also a symbol for Oigimi.

Waley translates "The Bridge Maiden", Seidensticker "The Lady at the Bridge", Tyler  "The Maiden of the Bridge" and Washburn "The Divine Princess at Uji Bridge"


Chronology

This chapter starts by describing the early life of the Eight Prince. Kaoru enters when he is already a Consultant Captain (age 20). After the passage of some time, the story gets underway in autumn when Kaoru is 22.


Position in the Genji

The last ten chapters of the novel are known as Uji Jujo, "The Ten Books of Uji."They belong to the fourth part of the Genji, also unofficially called "Kaoru Monogatari," as Kaoru is just as central to these chapters as Genji was to the main part of the novel.

Uji is a locale south of the capital, near the banks of a turbulent and noisy river, an area which is mist-covered and rustic. The trip to Uji from the capital is described as difficult and even dangerous, leading over steep mountain paths - one would think that Murasaki Shikibu had never visited Uji, for the road from Kyoto really does not lead through the mountains - it is rather flat and easy to travel. But besides being a real place, Uji was a poetic "pillow word," associated with "ushi," "sadness," by a pun on its name. Both the Uji River and Uji Mountain were associated with gloom, as many now famous scenic spots were in the past, as they were more lonely and distant than at present (to modern eyes, Uji boasts a striking natural setting, with attractions as the scenic Uji riverside, but also several famous temples). See my translation of the poem by Priest Kisen in the Hyakunin Isshu (One Hundred Poets, One Poem Each) for more on the connotations of Uji.

The Uji chapters are dominated by a strong influence of Buddhism and sense of uncertainty. The character of Kaoru is irresolute and hesitant - a thinker rather than a doer; he can't take the initiative in love, which makes a strong contrast with his rival Niou (and Genji in the past). 

This first Uji chapter introduces the Eighth Prince (Hachi no Miya), a half-brother of Genji, and his two daughters, Oigimi and Naka no Kimi, who live with him in his self-imposed retirement at Uji. The prince is known for his piety and wisdom. Kaoru, whose serious character is engendered by deep misgivings about his paternity, begins to study Buddhism under Hachi no Miya. Eventually he learns from Ben no Kimi, the daughter of Kashiwagi's wet nurse, who serves in the household of the Eight Prince, that he is not in fact Genji's son, but rather the illegitimate son of Kashiwagi.



[Hashihime, by Tosa Mitsunobu. Harvard Art Museums]


Synopsis

The Eight Prince (Hachi no Miya) was the eighth son of Emperor Kiritsubo, and therefore Genji's younger brother by a different mother. When Emperor Reizei was the Crown Prince, Empress Kokiden (Genji's nemesis) plotted to remove him and help Hachi no Miya to the throne. But the conspiracy, in which the prince himself was not actively involved, failed and Hachi no Miya was ostracized by court society. His wife already being dead, and his residence in the capital destroyed by fire, he retreated to Uji with his two daughters, Oigimi, the older sister, and Naka no Kimi, the younger sister. There he leads the life of an awakened Buddhist practitioner, without taking formal vows. For Kaoru, Hachi no Miya is a kindred spirit, a nobleman with a similar sensibility and profound Buddhist insights, so he starts frequently visiting him for philosophical and religious guidance.

In the third autumn since Kaoru has started to visit Hachi no Miya, he catches a glimpse (yes, via kaimami) of the two daughters making music, by playing a koto (a long Japanese zither with thirteen strings) and a biwa (a Japanese lute) under the wan moon at dawn. Kaoru is naturally attracted to the daughters, who look innocent, but also graceful. He is especially smitten by elder sister, the noble Oigimi.



[Kaoru's kaimami scene as portrayed in The Tale of Genji Museum]


When Kaoru tries to see Oigimi with the aid of one of the ladies in waiting, he meets the elderly Ben no Kimi, the daughter of the wet nurse of the late Kashiwagi. She promises Kaoru to tell him the secret concerning his birth.

After returning to the capital, Kaoru keeps thinking of Oigimi and the promise given him by Ben no Kimi. He also shares his discovery of the two beautiful sisters with his friend Niou, who, as the inveterate womanizer he is, gets passionately interested in them.

Early in the 10th month, during his next visit, Kaoru and Ben no Kimi talk about old times, and he receives a bag of letters from her. When he returns to Heiankyo, he opens the bag to find a bundle of moldy letters, which have been exchanged between Kashiwagi and the Third Princess. He now knows the secret of his birth - his father is Kashiwagi.

When Kaoru later visits his mother, the Third Princess, he plans to tell her that he knows who his real father is, but when he sees her peacefully reading sutras, he can't speak about those complications from the past, and decides to keep his knowledge to himself.


Genji-e (Information from JAANUS)

The scene most frequently chosen for illustration shows Oigimi playing a biwa lute and Naka no Kimi a koto under the moon and clouds while Kaoru secretly peers in through a break in the villa's bamboo fence. In the above illustration we only see one sister, presumably Oigimi.


Visiting Genji

(1) The Tale of Genji Museum in Uji is dedicated to the 10 Uji chapters that conclude The Tale of Genji. Located on the other bank of the river from Byodoin temple, the smart museum displays life-size models, dolls, costumes and furnishings as well as an oxen-drawn carriage from the novel. A film based on the Uji story is also shown. There is a cafe (with a good shop) and it feels as an oasis in the tourist onslaught around Byodoin. This is a beautiful museum, interesting as a whiff of aristocratic culture from the Heian period. 


[Tale of Genji Museum]

Access: Uji is about 30 min by from Kyoto by JR line to JR Uji St, and the same time via the Keihan line from Sanjo St in Kyoto to Keihan Uji St (with a transfer in Chushojima).  The museum is 8 min on foot from Keihan Uji, and 15 min on foot from JR Uji (from JR UJI it is across the river Uji).
When to visit: Hours: 9:00-17:00, last admission 30 min before closing.
Closed: Monday (open if Monday is a national holiday, then closed the next regular weekday), New Year holidays.

(2) The Uji Bridge. One of the oldest bridges in Japan, said to have been built for the first time in 646 (the present structure dates from 1996). A monument in nearby Hojoin temple on the east side of the bridge, claims that the builder was the monk Doto, while the Shoku Nihongi mentions another monk as founder, Dosho.


[Uji Bridge with statue of Murasaki Shikibu]

It is one of the three oldest bridges in Japan. Both in the Jinshin War and the Heike war the bridge played an important strategical role. The present bridge is a very tasteful structure, the cypress wood railings are in the traditional shape of wooden railings crowned with giboshi, so that the bridge blends in with the natural scenery of the Uji River and the historical heritage of the area surrounding the bridge. There is an overhang on the upstream side of the bridge, called "San-no-Ma," which is dedicated to Hashihime, the guardian deity of the bridge. The Hashihime legend plays an important role in the No play Kannawa. On the west side of the bridge also stands the small Hashihime Shrine.
The Uji Bridge spans the Uji River between Keihan Uji Station (east side) and JR Uji Station (west side) and is just a few minutes walk from each.


Photos via Wikimedia Commons


Reading The Tale of Genji