Shiso (Japanese condiments)

Shiso (perilla frutescens var. crispa) is a wonderful leaf that has now also been discovered by chefs elsewhere in the world. Thanks to that, the name "shiso" has been widely accepted outside Japan, and we can do away with old-fashioned quaint names like "beefsteak plant," or "perilla leaves" (ambiguous, as there are more varieties of perilla). In Japan, shiso is also called ooba ("big leaf," or contraction of "aoba," "green leaf").

[Green shiso leaves]

The large leaves (5x8cm) of this plant are used in Japanese cuisine. It is a member of the mint family (tasting somewhere between mint and basil) and has a very refreshing taste. Shiso improves the appetite.

Shiso originated in South-Western China, Myanmar and the Himalayas. It reached Japan very early: an archaeological find was made of a Jomon pot containing shiso seeds dating back 2,500 years. In the Heian period shiso was used a a medicine and also for pickles. 

There is a green (aojiso) and a red (akajiso) variety. The green variety is more common.

Shiso is available during the whole year thanks to hothouse cultivation. The natural season used to be from spring to early autumn. Most (more than 50%) of all shiso is produced in Aichi Prefecture (Toyohashi).

Shiso has the following uses in the Japanese kitchen:

Aojiso:

• The whole leaf can be eaten raw, as a garnish with sashimi. Good for its antibacterial properties, so don't leave it on the plate! 
• Also chopped fine and incorporated into rolled sushi.
• Finely chopped, it can be added as a flavoring to hot rice and other dishes.
• Can also be used in salads.
• The whole leaf can be deep-fried as tempura.

Akajiso:

• Used to give color to tsukemono, especially umeboshi (pickled plums) or shibazuke (pickled eggplant).
• The sprouts (mejiso) are used as a garnish for sashimi.
• The pods on the stalk (hana hojiso) are also used as a garnish for sashimi, or made into tempura. 
• When used as a garnish with sashimi, the pods should be scraped off with your chopsticks and mixed into the dipping sauce. 
• Aojiso can be used in the same way.